Recollections of 20 years (1896-1916)

For the Centenary celebrations of the Penang Free School on 21 October 1916, a special edition of the School Magazine was produced. Included within was a very long contribution by Dr Wu Lien Teh where he reflected on the 20 years following his 1896 graduation from his alma mater. The story, tracing his transformation into an internationally recognised public health pioneer, can be broken down into four parts:

• Education & Early Career: After leaving Penang as a Queen's Scholar, he studied medicine at Emmanuel College, Cambridge, and completed clinical training at St Mary's Hospital, London. He pursued advanced research in tropical medicine, bacteriology and hygiene across Liverpool, Cambridge, Halle and the Pasteur Institute in Paris before returning to Penang in 1903.

• Social Activism in Malaya: Following research on beri-beri in Kuala Lumpur and establishing a private practice in Penang, he co-founded the regional anti-opium crusade in 1906, serving as Secretary General of the first Opium Conference in Penang to combat the trade despite pushback from wealthy investors.

• Service in China & Pneumonic Plague: Moving to China in 1908, he served as Vice-Director of the Army Medical College in Tientsin. In December 1910, he was appointed to combat the deadly Manchurian pneumonic plague outbreak. He identified person-to-person respiratory transmission, implemented strict quarantine and face-mask protocols, performed the first post-mortems and ordered the mass cremation of thousands of bodies to successfully eradicate the epidemic by spring 1911.

• International Leadership & Medical Reform: In April 1911, he chaired the International Plague Conference in Mukden and received high honours from the Chinese government. He served as a Chinese delegate to the International Opium Conferences at The Hague (1911 and 1913), helped establish the Manchurian Plague Prevention Service (1912) and the National Medical Association (1915) and spearheaded the construction of Peking's Central Hospital.

A slightly shortened version of Wu Lien-Teh's article subsequently appeared in the Pinang Gazette and Straits Chronicles on 23 December 1916, but here is the story in full, taking up more than five pages in the School Magazine:

Recollections of Twenty Years (1896-1916) 

By WU LIEN TEH (GNOH LEAN TUCK)

I have been asked by the Editor of the Free School Magazine to write an article for publication in the Centenary Number of that Magazine. As the centenary of my old School takes place in October of this year, it will have been exactly twenty years since I left it. A retrospect of this period may therefore be of interest to present and past students.

It was in the month of August, 1896, that I left Penang as a Queen's Scholar to study at Cambridge. Thanks to the advice given by Mr. R. J. Wilkinson, lately Acting Governor of the Straits Settlements, but at that time a Police Court Magistrate, I joined Emmanuel, a College famous for its Puritanism. I had to pass an entrance examination for the College as well as the "Little Go" for the University, as the Oxford and Cambridge Locals had not at that time extended their ramifications to the schools of the Straits. I found no difficulty with Algebra, English History and kindred subjects but knew nothing of theology and was obliged to read through in three weeks "Paley's Evidences of Christianity" required for the examination. I was the second Chinese to have entered his name in the books of the "Varsity," (the first having been Mr. Song Ong Siang, now practising as a lawyer in Singapore) and the first Chinese to have been a medical student of Cambridge. The first few weeks of the First Term were exceedingly lonely, not because my fellow undergrads were unkind, for they were the best fellows in the world but because at seventeen I was thrown into an entirely new world for which I was not quite prepared. My tutor Mr. W. N. Shaw, F.R.S. (now Sir William Shaw, Head of the Meteorological Department, London) and his wife did their best to cheer me up and urged Fellows, Scholars and jovial undergrads to call on me and take me out for long walks. My present love for long walks and things beautiful may be traced to those days, when much against my will I was, so to say, led out to keep myself fit. The strange days of probation rapidly passed away, and by the end of the first Michaelmas Term I was as jolly and fond of ragging as the most mischievous. I can still recall vividly the (forged) invitation to lunch in a third year man's room, my waiting from 12-30 to 2 p.m. without any one appearing, my going away hungry and swearing, and my revenge a few years afterwards at St. Mary's Hospital when I had the pleasure of demonstrating on pathological subjects to the third year man who wrote the unkind invitation and of my taking the M.B. degree a year before he did. The Fresher's period of suffering only came once in his lifetime, and by next year I felt as superior, lofty and old as the towers of King's College Chapel. At college I neither rowed nor ran, but played tennis and once took part in the debating society, but failed to convince the majority of my hearers with my eloquence. As I had to prepare for both my Natural Sciences Tripos (known popularly as Stinks Trip because of the smells from chemical and other sources) and my medical exams, most of my after-noons were occupied in the various laboratories, where I became quite skilful in finding the ovaries of the earthworm, in making serial sections of the chick, and in displaying the cutaneous nerves of the face of the cadaver. Hence my appointment as assistant demonstrator in my third year. I made good friends outside as well as in my own college, and my two sons are named after two Trinity men, one of whom is now F.R.S. and a leading physiologist in England. In my second year I was awarded an Exhibition and in my third a Foundation Scholarship of the College, both of which eased my pocket considerably as it was anything but easy to live on the £200 (value of the Queen's Scholarship) after income tax had been deducted. In fact it was principally through the correspondence which my Tutor, Mr. Shaw had with the Crown Agents that the value of the Straits Scholarships was increased to £250 a year from the year 1899. One of the kindest friends I ever had was Professor Alexander MacAlister, head of the Anatomical Department, whose son-in-law, Sir Donald MacAlister, at that time Tutor of St. John's College, is now President of the General Medical Council. The second and third years of my undergraduate days passed away all too soon, and before I knew about it I had already obtained a First Class in the "Stinks" Tripos and also passed the crucial second M.B. Examination in Anatomy and Physiology. I was pressed by friends to stay a fourth year, take the second part of the Tripos and thus get elected to a College Fellowship, but I was more anxious to finish my medical course at an early date. Hence the September of 1899 saw me in London competing for and winning the University Scholarship at St. Mary's Hospital, which enabled me to complete my three years' hospital training without any cost to myself. A student's life in that vast metropolis with its apparent freedom and irresponsibilities was very different to the routine vivacious life of the old "Varsity," and unless one looked far ahead one was liable to go astray and be absorbed in the whirlpool. Instead of well-regulated college chumming one encountered strange lodging house life associated with uncertain friendship and irregular hours. The majority of my fellow students in London were more economical in their habits and perhaps, more serious in their work than those at Cambridge. Many thought nothing of working from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. each day, with an eight penny luncheon at Lyons' in between. For the first time I met men who had even less to spend on their education than myself, and this encouraged me to keep within my income. I found the practical and clinical side of the new work more interesting than the lectures, partly because the knowledge imparted in the latter could be acquired from text-books and partly because they were delivered either too early or too late in the day. They must be attended, however for "signing up" as required by the degree-conferring authorities. I enjoyed hospital work exceedingly, because it showed the noblest side of a man's character—courage in suffering, sympathy for others and real charity. The student was taught to be kind and gentle to rich and poor alike, to be observant and accurate in his work, to regard no manual work as mean or dirty and to aim at the highest ideals in the treatment of patients. The senior physicians and surgeons often set a fine example themselves, did their work conscientiously several hours a day without hope of pecuniary reward, and were always ready to accept new ideas from their junior colleagues if that means medical science could be improved. In other words it was being continually kept alive and go-ahead. At the end of 2½ years of hospital work at St. Mary's (i.e. December 1901) I passed my final examination for my medical degree. My old College (Emmanuel), wishing to encourage me in the pursuit of independent investigations, elected me to a Research Studentship of £150 a year. This enabled me to spend the first three months in the Liverpool School of Tropical Medicine where I enjoyed myself examining hundreds of blood films from cases of malaria at all hours of the day and night. Professor (now Sir) Ronald Ross had just made his reputation by proving the method of transmission of malarial fever from the mosquito to man but many obscure points still remained to be cleared up. Liverpool was then just sending expeditions to Africa to inquire into the causes of sleeping sickness, and I had the pleasure of associating with men like Dutton, Bannerman, Todd, Hume and others who afterwards contributed to the advancement of Tropical Medicine. I returned to Cambridge in May to read my Thesis, and obtain the degrees of M.B., B.C., and had the honour of receiving the Kerslake Scholarship in Pathology and Bacteriology and also the Cheadle Gold Medal in Clinical Medicine from St. Mary's. Immediately afterwards I proceeded to join the Hygienic Institute of Halle University in Germany, where amidst my experiments with the tetanus germ I had the opportunity of watching the keenness and unusual pains which the Germans took in the organisation of every activity of human life, from laboratory work and municipal affairs to soldiering and commerce. The Germans were as ambitious, domineering and conceited then as are the Japanese to-day, and only a terrible war with its immeasurable horrors, anxieties and losses, such as we are witnessing to-day, could make them appreciate the doctrine of "Live and let live." Towards the end of 1902 I removed to Paris and worked at the Pasteur Institute under Professor Metchnikoff, that famous Russian savant, who with his active wife lived the simplest of lives in a small suite of rooms and spent all the money they possessed and earned, such as from the Noble Prize of £7000, upon the advancement of medical science. As I learnt organisation in Germany, so I imbibed the doctrines of the simple and modest life in France, where no professor or worker considered himself too great or busy to assist others in the pursuit of truth and knowledge. The average visitor to Paris sees in the Café de Paris, Olympia, Louvre, Rue de la Paix, the shops, theatres, well-dressed women and a thousand other things only the outward manifestations of the glory and genius of France. Had he peeped behind the veil he would have noted that such things were only possible because the masses worked hard from morning till night, and saved a large part of their earnings, while the more brainy ones pondered over problems which eventually resulted in such epoch-making discoveries as the bicycle, automobile, aeroplane, and the treatment of hydrophobia. I entertained for the French nation the deepest feeling of affection because their liberty was real and their friendship sincere.

I returned to England in the spring of 1903, read the thesis and passed the examination for my M.D. degree, two years before I could have it conferred by the Senate. In March I was appointed House Physician to the Brompton Hospital for Consumption and Diseases of the Chest, and here I practised rigorously the excellent habit of sleeping with open windows throughout the year—a habit enjoined upon all patients, including the most serious. Thanks to my six months' stay in that Hospital I gathered considerable experience of chest complaints and routine hospital administration. The call of home was now uppermost in my mind and I left London in September by the Japanese mail steamer "Sado Maru," which arrived a month afterwards at Singapore where I was the guest of Dr. Lim Boon Keng. Here I met the charming Miss Wong, sister of Mrs. Lim, whom I fell in love with at first sight and who was destined to play such an important part in my future career.

The Straits Settlements, which I left seven years ago, appeared indeed strange at first sight. It took me some days before I could understand a word of the Chinese or Malay language. I felt awkward amidst my surroundings, and moved about more like a foreigner than a man returned to the home of his birth. I had, however, made up my mind to devote my best energies to the service of the people, and at once entered into their thoughts and desires. I proceeded by steamer to Penang where I found both my parents in good health, the old children grown up, and new ones added to the large family. Although there was much feasting given by friends to celebrate my home coming, my mind was already turning to Kuala Lumpur, where with a second year's tenure of the Travelling Studentship, I had arranged to continue my investigations in tropical disease at the Research Institute. Here I made a large number of post-mortem examinations on beri-beri cases. I stayed in the capital of the Federated Malay States for a year from 1903-1904, and saw the beginning of systematic rubber cultivation which was so soon to revolutionise the industries of the Malay States. I now settled down to a lucrative practice in Penang, and for three years had the opportunity of treating all classes and conditions of people. My training was, however, not meant for the humdrum existence of a general practitioner, and although my credit in the bank increased my mind was not at all at ease. I longed to be of more use to China and her people, so as to fulfil the wishes of the Right Honourable Sir Cecil Clementi Smith, founder of the Queen's Scholarships, whom I saw twice while in England, and who expressed more than once the opinion that the duty of Straits Scholars was to act as a leaven whereby the benefits of British culture and justice might be conveyed to China for the regeneration of that great people. It was with this end in view that I plunged headlong into the movements for the social welfare of the people, and took a leading part in the anti opium crusade which started in 1906. I knew that in my enthusiasm I would make enemies of my richest patients and friends, who, through no fault of their own, held the majority of shares in the opium monopoly farmed out by the Government. These friends visited me in my home and consulting room to desist me from my propaganda, promising free shares, compensation and what not, but I was obdurate, feeling that my duty lay with the masses of people rather than with my rich friends. I was the Secretary General of the first Opium Conference of the Straits and F.M.S., which was held in Penang and together with Mr. Goh Taik Chee was responsible for much that followed. The next Conference, even more enthusiastic, took place at Ipoh, and the resolutions passed were submitted to the Government and posted all over the world. People, who had up to then remained indifferent or contemptuous, began to look upon the movement seriously, and callous writers and speakers who used to say that opium was bad for Europeans but good for Chinese began to dwindle as their opponents increased in numbers. As a result, the first International Opium Commission was held in 1909 at Shanghai where opium smoking was definitely condemned as a harmful vice. I visited China for the first time in 1907, arriving at Shanghai in June and Tientsin in July — the hottest time of the year. The heat was intense, ranging from 110° to 115° F; the sun's rays seemed to penetrate the retina of the eye, and one felt as if being baked in an oven. The poor ricksha coolies continued to ply their trade as usual, some bareheaded, others with cloths wound round their heads. I found signs of progress everywhere, two medical schools already existed in Tientsin, and thousands of modern schools had been established throughout the province of Chili alone. Viceroy Yuan was then at the zenith of his career and was ably assisted by keen men who had received their training in American Colleges, such as Tang Shao Yi, M. T. Liang, etc. Peking was only four hours by train from Tientsin, and I took the first opportunity to visit the mysterious capital. I found it ill-kept, dirty and dusty, although the thick walls, the imposing Chien Men, the beautiful palaces and temples were undoubtedly monumental works of art to be found nowhere else in the world. I stayed with Captain Tan, whose acquaintance I had made in Newcastle ten years ago when serving under my uncle, Captain Lin Kuo Chang, at that time Superintendent of the construction of the Chinese cruisers. Captain Tan was then in charge of the Nobles School, where the aristocrats of China, mainly Manchus, were being initiated into the modern learning. He pressed me hard to give my services to China and introduced me to the more influential men in Peking. I promised to come next year after my affairs in Penang had been settled. The Army Medical Service attracted me, because I saw therein the potentialities of proper organisation and efficiency. Hence after a few months' stay in Penang, I proceeded to Europe again in the spring of 1908 and took courses in military hygiene in London and Berlin. There I remained six months, and after a few weeks' sojourn in the Straits, I finally left my native home for service under the Chinese Government. There was already political trouble brewing in the capital, for Viceroy Yuan had been removed from his post in Tientsin and had received Irish promotion as a Grand Councillor in the capital. His bitter enemy, General Tieh Liang, the Manchu, had gathered into his hands the model army trained by Viceroy Yuan, and hence I received my commission as Vice-Director of the Army Medical College not from him whom I had come to serve but from his hated rival. A strange irony indeed! The official dispatch reached me on the date of announcement of the combined deaths of the Empress Dowager and Emperor Kwang Hsu. It was not a very auspicious event for the whole country was plunged into deep mourning. During my three years at the Army Medical College, Tientsin, I did my best to infuse, besides knowledge of medicine, duty and discipline among the students, many of whom came from the country villages without any previous scientific training and had very little idea of the requirements of surgical cleanliness or modern sanitation, such as are taught now-a-days in all western colleges. For three years I urged upon the army authorities the absolute need of having an up-to-date hospital, where not only the soldiers could be treated in the most efficient way, but the students could learn accurate clinical methods and thus spread proper scientific medicine. My appeals were not heeded, principally because our old-style officials had not yet realised the immense superiority of western scientific over ancient empiric medicine and were still bent upon conferring equal favours upon Chinese and western medicine, thus incurring double expense without substantial benefit to either. It was during this period of uncertainty (December, 1910) that news reached Peking of the outbreak of plague in North Manchuria. Residents in Peking were getting nervous and more and more deaths were reported daily from Harbin.

On the recommendation of Alfred Sze, Councillor of the Foreign Office (the present Minister to the Court of St. James) I was selected to proceed to Harbin and devise means for stamping out the epidemic without delay. I got myself inoculated with anti-plague vaccine, suffered two days of pain and torture, and arrived in Harbin on December 20th. There I found conditions very unsatisfactory. The local Magistrate was a confirmed opium smoker, prided himself upon being an amateur physician and did not believe in germs or foreign medicines. There were no hospitals, laboratories or disinfection stations, and only a plague house, formerly a bathing establishment, existed into which suspected patients, that is, those who coughed, vomited blood or suffered from headache of any kind were indiscriminately thrown. The taotai (highest official of the district) was anxious to get rid of the pest but did not wish to follow the advice of the medical officers. Add to this the extreme cold, varying from 25° to 33° C., and you have a fair idea of the difficulties which confronted me at the time. However, thanks to the loyal support I received from Peking, and to the increasing number of assistants, including some English missionary doctors, we were able to turn schools, theatres and bath-houses into disinfection stations, and temples and deserted inns into isolation wards and plague hospitals. In the meantime I had had occasion to examine the cases, for up to then I had never seen or heard of an epidemic in which patients died in one to three days after showing signs of the disease, and in which no one recovered. I performed the first two post-mortems in the deserted homes of the dead, cultivated the microbes from the spleen and found them to be the same as ordinary plague bacilli. It was clear that infection took place directly from person to person through the bloody sputum, which the sick brought up in abundant quantities, and the only way to stop the epidemic was to strictly isolate the sick from the healthy, and to cover the mouth and nose of hospital attendants with gauze and cotton wool as a protective measure. Medicines were of no avail for the disease destroyed the lungs too quickly. There was no immediate fear from the dead, for when persons ceased breathing no more bacilli came forth from the lungs. Hence the rat danger so urgent in bubonic plague did not exist. It took nearly a month for the organisation to be perfected and for the officials to come round to my point of view. The plague reached its highest point of virulence in January, when as many as one hundred and eighty persons died in one day out of a population of 18,000. Owing to the frozen state of the ground, and to the difficulty of digging trenches, the number of coffins piled up quickly and by the end of January nearly four thousand were counted on the burial ground. I took the bull by the horns and boldly wired to Peking asking for permission to burn all these coffins. After a delay of two days, the final order was received for the cremation of the dead. On January 31st, two thousand coffins were piled up in columns of 100 each, and in spite of cold, snow and wind burnt splendidly. By the third of February, not one coffin remained on the ground which but a few days ago had witnessed more than half a mile of dead. Our staff now felt less unnerved, worked with greater zeal and hope, and the epidemic was firmly controlled. The last case of plague was reported in the Chinese city on March 1st. It was a triumph of organisation and co-operation. I now turned my attention to other cities, like Shuang Cheng, Changchun, Mukden, etc. where the epidemic had killed thousands of people. They in turn adopted the same methods which we had found so useful in Harbin, and by the end of April the plague had completely stopped throughout North China and Manchuria. That extraordinary epidemic cost China 60,000 lives and over ten million taels. Desiring to make a thorough study of this plague, the Chinese Government convened an International Conference in April, 1911, at which expert scientists of eleven nations sat and devised measures for the prevention of a similar occurrence in future. I had the honour of sitting as President of that Conference. Along with the delegates, I travelled to Peking, and was everywhere received with marked kindness. The most conspicuous was the special audience granted me by the Prince Regent, who thanked me on behalf of the country and humanity and decorated me with the Second Class Double Dragon. It was the first occasion in Chinese history a medical man had been thus honoured.

Preparations for the holding of the International Opium Conference at the Hague having been completed, I was appointed Chinese delegate with Sir Liang Chen Tung and Mr. Tong Kaison to attend that famous gathering. The Revolution broke out at that time (October 1911), but we stuck to our work and sat for nearly one month with the trained diplomatists of Europe, discussing a problem which so vitally affected China. At this Conference I took a considerable share in drafting the scientific part of the proceedings. Eventually the final resolutions were passed, in which all participating nations agreed to mutually help each other in suppressing the opium, morphine and cocaine vices. I felt then that my early pecuniary sacrifices and pioneer work in the Straits had been worth all the labour and worry, for it had at last received international recognition. The first work was for a community; this one concerned a whole nation.

At the conclusion of the Conference I crossed the Channel and visited Cambridge, where I presented some rare specimens of pneumonic plague organs to the pathological museum of my Alma mater, and spent some weeks with Professor Sims Woodhead preparing sections and data for a monograph on the Manchurian epidemic. I returned to Peking via Siberia in 1912 just after Yuan Shi Kai had been formally elected President of the new Republic.

The Manchurian Plague Prevention Service was definitely organised in September of that year, although since the plague Medical Officers had been appointed and isolation stations had been established at the important seaports and railway centres. For four years now this service had carried on its work in Manchuria and exercised its influence wherever possible in bringing knowledge of modern medicine and prevention of disease to the masses. That it has succeeded is beyond question, but China is a huge country and its people are intensely conservative, and unless the government, the educated classes and officials thoroughly awake themselves, progress will be slow.

I was again appointed delegate to the Second Opium Conference held at the Hague in June 1913. This time Mrs. Wu accompanied me and we also visited Berlin, Paris, Cambridge and London. I attended the International Medical Congress in London and read a paper on the origin of the Plague, contending that it was not caused by the Mongolian marmot but by some imported cases of the bubonic pest which through secondary infection had become pulmonary and thus spread as a general epidemic during the winter months.

The International Congress of Medicine was a wonderful affair. Over eight thousand doctors from all parts of the world attended, the most friendly feelings were displayed and none foresaw that within twelve months the present terrible war would begin.

From London I sailed for America, whither I had received telegraphic orders to proceed and attend the Congress of School Hygiene at Buffalo. My first impression of New York was a striking one. There seemed to be eternal bustle and hustle, and no one appeared to have time for even his daily meals. America was certainly progressive and self-conscious, and the wealthy were most liberal with their money, as judged by the humanitarian activities of Carnegie, Rockefeller and others.

My labours at Buffalo having terminated, I visited Chicago and Boston (where John Harvard of Emmanuel founded the first American University), crossed the Rocky Mountains in Canada, stayed a week at that delightful place Laggan, and left Vancouver by the Empress of Asia for Japan. Owing to the extraordinary progress which Japan has made in less than fifty years, I was delighted with the opportunity of seeing the people in their own country. There is no doubt they have an efficient government backed up by a thorough educational system, in which no one (man or woman) is allowed to remain illiterate. Patriotism and self-sacrifice are taught in the home as well as at school, and the best that the west can teach is adapted to the needs of the country. Truly a splendid organisation among a receptive people!

Since 1913, I have been engaged in extending the medical organisation for which I came to China. One of the Chinese assistants, educated in Japan who worked with me in Harbin, is now Chief of the Medical Department at the Board of War, whilst another who was recommended to study in America is now Director of the Army Medical College. More competent colleagues have returned or are returning from Europe and America, and before long we shall be able to accomplish more than has hitherto been possible in the past. The National Medical Association was founded in 1915, and held its first Conference in Shanghai early this year. The Central Hospital of Peking, upon which I had devoted much energy for six years, is now in course of construction, and when completed will serve as an object lesson to officials and others regarding the beneficence and superiority of modern scientific medicine. For this Central Hospital will be equipped with all the latest contrivance for the diagnosis and treatment of disease, so that rich as well as poor may receive the fullest benefit from it.

It is my earnest hope that during the next twenty years I shall be able to witness still greater progress and more happiness in China and the rest of the world.

The first Asian headmaster

The Penang Free School’s first Asian headmaster, Tan Boon Lin, passed away in Petaling Jaya on 7 September 2025, just five days short of his 98th birthday. Back in 2012, for FIDELIS, the commemorative book of The Old Frees’ Association, journalist Lim Chang Moh had interviewed him. As a tribute, that article is reproduced here in full.

Up close and personal with Dato’ Tan Boon Lin 

- Lim Chang Moh -

ONE DAY in 1939, a young boy from Nibong Tebal, Province Wellesley, sat alone outside the Penang Free School headmaster’s office, quietly working on an examination. To the 11-year-old, the test was of utmost importance because it was to help the headmaster, Mr LW Arnold, decide if he was qualified to enter the first year of secondary school at PFS. 

Tan (fourth from right) and his Senior Cambridge “A” class of 1946.

At 11, the pupil had skipped two years (due to double promotion) to complete his primary education. This was a special case that needed the HM’s attention.

After completing the test, the anxious boy waited patiently with his grandfather outside the HM’s office for the papers to be marked. When Mr Arnold emerged two hours later, he extended his hand to the youngster, saying: “Welcome to Penang Free School, young man!”  

That ‘young man’ was Tan Boon Lin – and every time he passed by the corridor outside the HM’s office, he would recall that fateful day when he was to be ‘enrolled’ as a Free School student. Tan Boon Lin, now made a Datuk, had not only studied (1939-1947) and taught at PFS (1951-1955), he also created a number of ‘firsts’ at the school. He was the first old Free and University of Malaya graduate to teach at PFS, and, more significantly, he was its first Malaysian headmaster (from 1963 to 1968). A product of PFS, he helped mould its students as well as helmed the school.  

To most of my schoolmates and I, Datuk Tan is not just our former HM, he is also our friend, advisor and mentor. He attended many of our class reunions and he has always made us feel welcome at his house. This interview was conducted at his residence in Petaling Jaya on 2 December 2011 and we chatted over coffee that he brewed personally.

Tan with his Pinhorn Scout Troop at the Jubilee Camp in
Teluk Bahang in April 1947 

Q: You enrolled in PFS in 1939. What happened when World War Two broke out?

TBL: When the war started in December 1941, I had finished Standard 8 (Form 4). Some of my friends had to take the Senior Cambridge exam at Hutchings School and they were killed when the building was bombed by the Japanese. I attended Japanese school for one or two months, then I took up a job as sales assistant at a cloth shop in Penang Road. When the cloth ran out and the shop closed, I worked at another shop, all for a total of three years. I had to stay at the premises to guard the shop. One strange thing was that the Japanese did not close the Penang Library immediately after occupying the state. I borrowed many detective novels from the library and did a lot of reading. When the British returned in August 1945, they held a military parade along Penang Road. While we were watching it, I told my boss I was going back to school.

Q: How was school like after the war?

TBL: Well, there was a shortage of everything. There were not enough desks and chairs and books. I remember the whole class had to share one maths book. Still, the teachers did their utmost to prepare us for the examination. I was among the first batch to take the Cambridge Overseas School Certificate and I got a Grade One for it, with three distinctions – in English Literature, Elementary Maths and Additional Maths. It was quite a feat in those days. 

Q: What were your fondest memories of school? 

TBL: I was appointed a Senior Prefect of the school. However, my best times were spent as a Boy Scout. Those days, the troops were named after the Houses and my Scout Master Yeo Siew Kiat made me acting Troop Leader of Pinhorn Troop. I had to be ‘acting’ troop leader because I did not attain the First Class badge as I could not pass the swimming test. Mr Yeo recognised my abilities and let me run the troop even after my final exams in 1947. To me, this was one of PFS’s best traditions. Students developed leadership skills and responsibility when they managed their own extra-mural activities. The teachers only supervised but did not interfere. 

The PFS Board of Prefects during D Roper’s term as headmaster in 1947.
Tan is seated on the far left.

Q: After Free School, what were your plans for tertiary education?

TBL: I won a Malayan Union Scholarship to study Arts at Raffles College in Singapore. It was a three-year course which ended in 1950. The University of Malaya had come into being and I obtained my Bachelor of Arts degree. After that, I had two options: to do my Honours or to get a Diploma of Education. Since I had wanted to teach at PFS, I took the diploma course in 1951. 

Q: What made you decide to become a teacher at PFS? 

TBL: In August 1947, I had to leave Penang for Raffles College in Singapore. My father accompanied me to the railway pier to take the ferry to Prai and there, to my surprise, was my entire Scout troop giving me a big send-off. As the ferry pulled away and I saw the sea of waving hands of my Scouts and friends, I knew I must come back to the school and serve it. After completing my Diploma of Education, I applied to teach at PFS. In October 1951, I reported for duty to Mr JE Tod, the headmaster. A few months later, Mr Tod met me on the school field and told me that I was going to teach Form Five next year! After teaching for a few years, I realised that I needed to get my Honours degree. So I returned to the University of Malaya in 1954 to major in History. I got Second Class Upper. That turned out to be one of the best decisions of my life because when I returned to teach at PFS, I was made Education Officer and put on the same rank as the expatriates. 

Fast forward 21 years and this is Tan with the Board of Prefects in 1968

Q: What were the events that led to your appointment as Headmaster of PFS?

TBL: In 1956, I was transferred to Malacca High School as Education Officer. On 26 August 1957, as our country was preparing for independence, I lost my ‘independence’ when I married Wong May Lian, also a teacher. In 1959, I was promoted as Headmaster of Gajah Berang Secondary School and in 1962, I was made Headmaster of Sultan Abdul Hamid College in Alor Star. I was in Alor Star for less than two years when the then PFS Headmaster, Mr JMB Hughes, decided to return to Britain. I was transferred to PFS to take over from him. Mr Hughes later told me that he was glad that an old boy was taking over as HM. In August 1963, I walked into the school assembly as its first Asian Headmaster. 

Q: What were your plans for the school as its new HM?

TBL: Basically I had four objectives: (i) maintain our School’s high academic standards; (ii) encourage the expansion of games, extra-mural activities, clubs and societies; (iii) maintain the drive for funds to build facilities our school lacked; and (iv) maintain a high standard of conduct among students with emphasis on good manners, honesty, obedience, humility, punctuality and above all, loyalty both to the School and to our nation. I believed that by pursuing all these objectives we would uphold the grand traditions of our school. A Development Fund had been launched by the School Board of Governors and four projects had been completed to raise funds for the construction of a swimming pool.

Q: Tell us more about the Tunku’s role in shaping the history of the school.

TBL: The Tunku, who was also an Old Free, was very close to our school. He took a special interest in us and he graced many of our functions. He was the Guest-of-Honour at our Sesqui-centenary celebrations in 1966. We had an entire week of celebrations and present Frees and Old Frees were involved in the activities which included games, a debate between Old Frees and young Frees, a Sesqui-centenary dinner in our school hall, a science exhibition and a special Speech Day on 21 October 1966. To commemorate the special occasion we added a new House, named Tunku Putra House, to the existing five Houses in our school. The Postal Department issued two stamps and set up a special Post Office in our school to sell First Day covers to commemorate the 150th anniversary of the oldest school in South East Asia. Before the event, the Tunku paid a visit to our school. He informed me that he intended to donate $100,000 for a special school project. After some discussion, we agreed that it should be for a library. We walked around the school grounds and the Tunku suggested a site for the Library, the area in front of the teachers’ quarters at the far end of the school field. The money from the swimming pool project was added to the Tunku’s $100,000 and construction began. On 29 December 1969, the Tunku officially opened Khutub Khanah Tunku.

Q: I was in Form Three in 1966 when our art teacher, Mr G.S. Reutens, told us about a school song. Was it meant for the Sesqui-centenary celebrations?  

TBL: The School Rally was Mr Reutens’ idea. He approached me one day in 1966 and said that the school should have its own marching song and he had composed it based on the school motto. The singing of the School Rally was included for the first time in the programme for Speech Day in 1967. [Editorial note: Tan Boon Lin was mistaken. It has since been confirmed that the School Rally was first sung during the Sesqui-centenary celebrations in 1966.] 

Q: How did you feel when you had to leave PFS?

TBL: I never wanted to leave the school but Encik Khir Johari (the then Education Minister) called and said “your country needs you” and that was that. I was appointed Director of Education of Pahang in January 1969.

Tan being interviewed by the author at the former’s residence in Petaling Jaya.

[After serving as Director of Education in Pahang (1969-1974), Dato’ Tan returned to Penang as its Director of Education. Two years later, he was promoted as Chief Inspector of Schools, Malaysia. His last post before retirement was Director of Technical and Vocational Education in the Ministry of Education].

Lim Chang Moh was a student of PFS from 1964 to 1970 (Form One to Form Six). He then read his B.A. (Hons) at the University of Malaya, and worked as a journalist at The Star and The Malay Mail. Now retired, he works as a freelance biographer and writer. [Editorial note: Lim Chang Moh passed away in July 2012, barely four months after his contribution appeared in FIDELIS.] 

Formation of The Old Frees' Association

The Old Frees' Association was founded on this day, 102 years ago. On 17th April 1923, the inaugural general meeting was held at the Penang Chinese Town Hall on Pitt Street, where prominent local lawyer Yeoh Guan Seok was elected as the Association’s first President.

Serving alongside him on that first committee were Khoo Sian Ewe and MHM Noordin as Vice-Presidents, Khoo Heng Kok as Secretary, Tan Kiar-Lew as Assistant Secretary, Dr Ong Huck Chye as Treasurer, Ooi Thean Soo as Auditor, and E Mahomed Hashim as Sports Captain. The other elected committee members were Harold Cheeseman, Husein Hasanally Abdoolcader, Quah Beng Kee, Lim Keong Lay, Ong Boon Swee, Samsudin, Dr Lim Guan Cheng, and Dr A.O. Merican.

Recently uncovered from the collection of a prominent Old Free in Penang was an incomplete copy of the Penang Free School Magazine (Vol. VII No. 3), published in April 1923. Only the first eight pages have survived, but among them was a valuable account of a preliminary meeting held on 20th February 1923 to discuss the formation of an Old Boys’ society.

As recorded in Centenary—the commemorative publication released in 2023 to mark the Association’s 100th anniversary—the Straits Echo (mail edition) reported on 27th February 1923 that “about a hundred Old Free School boys attended the meeting.” The school magazine version of the report, reproduced from the Pinang Gazette and Straits Chronicle dated 22nd February 1923, was nearly identical in content, with only minor corrections to names and spellings. Here is the School Magazine version:

Old Boys' Association to be Formed

The question of forming an Association of Old Boys of the Penang Free School was fully discussed at a largely attended meeting held in the Chinese Town Hall, on 20th February, 1923. 

Amongst those present were the Hon Mr Yeoh Guan Seok, (in the chair), Messrs Quah Beng Kee OBE, J Gawthorne, Ooi Thean Soo, Gopal Das, S Manicram, Dr Lim Guan Cheng, Dr Merican, RH Pinhorn, HR Cheeseman, DR Swaine, HH Abdoolcader, Khoo Heng Kok, MA Bakar, Tan Kiar Lew, Quah Beng Hoe, Hamid Khan, MHM Noordin, SMO Merican, Chee Kok Fee, Ho Hup, Khoo Thay Jin, Khoo Sian Ewe, Lim Keong Lay and Md Eusoff.

The Hon Mr Yeoh Guan Seok said that as they all knew why they were there it was needless for him to detain them long to explain the reason for the meeting. It had been agreed that an Old Frees’ Association should be formed. It had recently been stated that all the English public schools had “Old Boys’” societies, which did excellent work in fostering the traditions of their schools, maintaining touch between the old boys and the teaching and governing bodies and enabling their members to render one another mutual help and assistance. But it was not necessary to go so far afield to find an example, The Anglo-Chinese School Union had been in existence in Penang for some time and had thoroughly justified its existence.

Many of Penang’s most distinguished citizens are “Old Frees”: the school enjoyed a fine reputation far outside this Settlement; and any ex-pupil ought to be proud and happy to belong to an association which would enable him to keep up his connection with the comrades of his youth and the place where he received his education. On the more material side, also, such a link was badly needed and should prove of real value. He also pointed out that there were many of Penang’s distinguished citizens, who were Old Frees in Ipoh and he had received the following telegram from an Old Boy in Ipoh. “Best wishes for success Old Frees’ Association.” Mr Tan Kean Lew had also received a letter from a distinguished Old Free from Sungei Patani in which he stated he hoped for and looked forward to the success of the meeting. As they had all agreed that an association should be formed the next thing to be done was to propose certain resolutions.

Mr Yeoh Guan Seok then proposed the following resolutions:-

1. That an Association be formed of all Old Frees and Masters of over 5 years’ service;

2. That all persons present at this meeting shall be original members of the Association;

3. That the name of the Association shall be Old Frees’ Association;

4. That membership of the Association be confined to Old Frees and Masters of 5 years’ standing;

5. That Mr Khoo Heng Kok be appointed Hon Secretary (pro-tem) of the Association; and that Messrs Khoo Heng Kok, HR Cheeseman, and Tan Kiar Lew be appointed a provisional committee to draft rules for the Association;

6. That such draft rules be submitted to an adjournment of this meeting;

7. That the officers of the Association be elected at the adjourned meeting;

8. And that this meeting do now adjourn to a date to be announced later in the newspapers.

Mr Quah Beng Kee said that after what the Hon Mr Yeoh Guan Seok had said in favour of the formation of the association he had not think it was necessary for him to take up any more of their precious time. He hoped they would support the resolutions put before them which he had much pleasure in seconding.

After these resolutions had been carried, the Chairman added, the meeting would be adjourned to a later date when the provisional Committee would submit draft rules. After the passing of these rules the officers would be appointed to put the association on a legal basis.

The meeting terminated with a vote of thanks to the chair.

 

On the edge of Church Square

1821 to 1897

 

Cheeseman's letter

The establishment of The Old Frees' Association exactly 100 years ago was the result of this letter which Harold Cheeseman wrote in the Penang Free School Magazine of October 1922. It set in motion a series of meetings by the Old Boys which led to The Old Frees' Association a few months later.

(TO THE EDITOR, THE PENANG FREE SCHOOL MAGAZINE)

SIR,

October 21st. of this year has passed away almost unnoticed. Nothing took place on the anniversary of the foundation of the Penang Free School to suggest that it was a day of any particular importance to those who can claim the honour of being past or present boys of the school.

No one who has any acquaintance at all with the real facts of the case will be so foolish as to suppose that this omission indicates any lack of affection for or interest in the school. Past and present boys alike glory in its traditions, in its ancient foundation (for with the youthful institutions around us may not one hundred and six years be regarded as ancient?), in its splendid and stirring record. We have but to cast our minds back to the celebrations at the school centenary in 1916 and to recollect the scenes of devotion and enthusiasm that
were then witnessed to realise that there is a

strong feeling of loyalty and affection. We must not conclude from the absence of an Old Boys’ celebration that there is any lack of interest on the part of old boys, any more than we should conclude that present boys lack loyalty from the absence of any effort to organise a school celebration on the part of the Head Boy and his fellow prefects or on the part of the School Cricket and the School Football Captains (to whom it did not occur to arrange matches with Old Frees). The real reason for all this apparent apathy is to be found in the non-existence of an Old Frees Association. Such an association should undoubtedly be formed. There is not merely interest in its formation; there is keen desire that it should be started. But no progress is made because there is no one to take the initiative. I had the honour of serving on the Centenary Celebration Committee and the reason why that Committee did not proceed to the formation of an Association was because all the schemes put forward were grandiose and impossible. There were plans for a club house, for the acquisition of property. If I may venture the opinion, I would suggest that it would be most unwise to embark on any such hazardous undertaking. There are many excellent clubs in the town; it would be a mistake to start what could not but be a rival club. My suggestion is that a modest commencement should be made with an Association that would, for instance, have a register of members, keep old boys in touch with each other and with the school, and ensure a re-union at least once a year. This magazine might form an excellent medium for keeping members in touch with each other and with the School. Every member could receive a copy of the magazine and doubtless arrangements could be made by which the Association could be granted space in it so that the magazine would be its official organ and would also supply news of Old Frees, their whereabouts and doings. The Association would presumably arrange occasional matches, debates, etc., with the school (incidentally it is perhaps surprising that the Debating Society has never yet

arranged a debate with Old Frees
participating). The subscription would not need to be large, just sufficient to cover the cost of the magazine, the cost of keeping the register, and the usual incidental expenses. The reunions when held would be paid for by the subscriptions of those attending. From such modest beginnings as these we might venture later to more ambitious developments.

It is possible that there may be some initial expenses in connection with the formation of such an association, but it is well known that there are funds ample for this purpose with the Hon. Secretary and Treasurer of the Centenary Celebration Committee. That is money lying idle that might well be profitably employed. We have the interest, we have a scheme, we have money. All we require is somebody to take the initiative. Who is to make the move? I suggest that the proper body to make that move is the Centenary Celebration Committee. I would urge that members of this Committee should request the Honorary Secretary to call a Committee meeting to consider whether these funds may not be diverted to this purpose and also to consider whether the time is not ripe for requesting the Headmaster of the Penang Free School to call by advertisements in the local papers) a meeting of old boys to discuss the practicability of forming an Old Frees Association.

I make no apology for writing to the school magazine on this subject. I feel sure it will arouse deep interest among all your readers, not only among old boys but also among present boys particularly those boys who in a few short weeks will be leaving school.

Yours truly,
H.R. CHEESEMAN
Penang,
30th October, 1922.

An excerpt from History of Penang

In 1903, the Straits Echo ran an interesting series on History of Penang over several months. This extract from the copy of 16th November will be of interest to historians and possibly anyone who had studied in Penang Free School.

During the establishment of the Presidency in 1805 there arrived in Penang a schoolmaster named Thomas Callum, whose duties apparently appertained to teaching the children of the European and Government officials, while the general public was not provided with educational facilities.

The Rev. R.S. Hutchins, one of the first Chaplains of the Presidency, appears to have been much impressed with the state of affairs with reference to the non-education of native children, and on his representations to Government an influential committee was appointed to convene a public meeting to discuss the advisability of opening a school for the education of native children.

A meeting was duly held on the 10th of January, 1816, and on the 0th of the following month the following resolution was published in the form of an "Address to the Public," setting forth the advantages of education, and at the same time soliciting subscriptions for the founding of an educational establishment.

The public responded with $9,937 that year; the Government added $1,500 in the year following to $300 subscribed by the public; and Government gave an annual grant of $2,400.

The school was first opened on October 21st 1816 - the anniversary of Capt. Light's death - in a rented house in Church Street. It was called the Free School, as it was intended for the reception of all classes of children.

The fees, which went to the Funds, were finally fixed at three rates, i.e., $3, $2 and $1 per mensem, and hildren whose parents were poor and could not afford to pay were exempted from payment, but all children had to be nominated before they were admitted to the school.

The salary of Mr. Cox, who had charge of the establishment and who came over from Madras, was fixed at $80 per mensem.

Malays, Chulias, and Hindoos who did not desire that their children should learn English could have them instructed in their own language.

A Girls' School was started the following year, but was afterwards discontinued, owing to lack of support, and was suspended until such time as sufficient funds were available for establishing a female Orphan Institution for boarding and educating at least 20 girls, instead of a day school used by only a few girl pupils.

At the first annual general meeting, held in October 1817, it was announced that the Government, now under Colonel Bannerman, had granted to the School a piece of land adjoining the new Church (St. George's). Lieutenant Smith, of the Royal Engineers, drew a plan for a suitable building to accommodate 100 boys and 50 girls, but for economical reasons he was compelled to refrain from adding any architectural ornamentation to the central block of the present school houses, which were built by a Chinaman, whose tender for $6,500 was accepted in December 1819; the School houses, however, eventually cost $7,208.

Philip Mountbatten (1921-2021)

Today marks the death of Philip Mountbatten, Duke of Edinburgh, Consort to Queen Elizabeth II, in London two months short of his 100th birthday. Prince Philip was born on the Greek island of Corfu on 10 June 1921, the only son of Prince Andrew of Greece and Denmark and Princess Alice of Battenberg. As a member of the House of Glücksburg and the ruling house of Denmark, he was a prince of both Greece and Denmark by virtue of his patrilineal descent from George I of Greece and Christian IX of Denmark. From birth, he was in the line of succession to both thrones.

Some people may remember the visit of Elizabeth and Philip to Penang in 1972. They arrived at Swettenham Pier on 8th March and were whisked away to visit the Supreme Court building and the newly constructed Dewan Sri Pinang. During their brief 11-hour stay in Penang, the royal couple were also taken to Penang Hill, Batu Ferringhi and the Botanic Gardens. 

What is lesser known is that on 31st October 1956, Philip had made a rare, even shorter hours-long visit to Penang as part of his tour of the Commonwealth countries in the Far East, including Australia and New Zealand. He was supposed to visit Singapore but that part of his itinerary was cancelled following some riots there earlier. However, his visit to Malaya proceeded as scheduled. 

In the Penang Free School Magazine of 1957, it was written that a motorcade bringing Philip, Sir Donald MacGillivray (the British High Commissioner) and RP Bingham (the Resident Commissioner) had driven into the school grounds on that day. After the Headmaster, JE Tod, had greeted them, the visitors proceeded to the school field where Philip planted a casuarina sapling near the flagstaff. He then walked up to the assembled masters and had a brief chat with them. As he was leaving the school field, the School Captain led the School in three rousing cheers. 

The school magazine added: "Turning back, the Duke waved and then noticed some English ladies and gentlemen who were standing near the parapet of the first floor of the school building. Thereupon, the Prince smiled at them and upon his waving his hand again, a lady fell off her chair." 

Unfortunately, this sapling did not survive for long and there is no longer any trace of it on the school field. 

(Source: The Straits Times, 1st November 1956)

(Sources: Let the Aisles Proclaim and Penang Free School Archives)

(Source: David Hwang Hong Shi)

(Source: David Hwang Hong Shi)

(Source: David Hwang Hong Shi)

Founding of Penang in 1786

Without the founding of the Prince of Wales' Island by Captain Francis Light on 10 August 1786, there will be no Penang Free School today. In this story below, the events leading to Light formally taking possession of the island from the Sultan of Kedah are described. These extracts are supposedly from Light's Journal itself, and had appeared in James Richardson Logan's own scholarly Journal of the Indian Archipelago and Eastern Asia which he edited and contributed. In Penang, Logan is remembered through the naming of Logan Road in his memory and the Logan Memorial opposite the stately Supreme Court Building.

Extracts from Journal of Captain F. Light

Queda. 11th 12th and 13th July 1786. Embarking the people and provisions:- 14th at 5 p.m. sailed in company with the Prince Henry and Speedwell snow.

15th. Anchored off a small island on the north side of Pinang in 5 fathoms, sent a boat to sound, found no less than 2 fathoms close to the shore.

16th. At noon having a light breeze and flood tide got under sail, and run into the harbour, anchored in 13 fathoms within a musket shot of the shore. The Prince Henry anchored close to the Speedwell, I ordered to run further to the southward, until she got into shoaler water, they anchored about 1/2 mile from us in 8 fathoms soft ground; sent the boats to sound the bay, found good anchoring ground close to the eastern shore, and 11 fathoms within 2 miles of the beach.

17th. Disembarked Lieutenant Gray with the marines upon point Penagger, a low sandy point, covered with wood. Employed clearing the ground.

18th. Landed the Europeans; - the marines and lascars employed clearing the wood and pitching their tents. The Data of Qualla Moodoo came. He brought a fishing net and desired permission to erect a house, which I readily granted; - a prahu from Queda likewise arrived with Captain China and some Christians of India, - they also brought a net which was very acceptable.

19th. People employed clearing the woods: - some of the inhabitants of the island, who dwelt at the foot of the hills, paid me a visit and offered their service to assist me, I dismissed them with a present.

20th. Employed clearing and burning the woods. Snow arrived from Keddah, on board of which I had shipped paddy and Attaps; she is commanded by one Loundes. Dug several wells, found the water indifferent, but stained with the roots of the Penagger which dies red; permitted the marines and lascars to build huts as the tents were not sufficient to contain the half of them.

21st. This morning had frequent squalls with rain. In the afternoon cutting down the trees.

22nd. Rain for the most part of the day.

23rd. Pleasant day, the people from Queda erected a small Bazar near the cantonments, appointed Noqueda Catchee to superintend the bazar and prevent impositions on either side, ordered him a guard of marines.

24th. A fine day, all hands at work.

25th. The same, brought ashore the 2 field pieces with their carriages. Employed building cantonments as I intend despatching the Eliza to Queda: - removed the Company's Treasurer into the Prince Henry.

26th. Fine weather - landed the 13 pounders and tumbrils. Lieut. Halcombe not being acquainted with the Malay language requested of Captain Glass to go with him. In the afternoon the Eliza sailed; - the people all at work.

27th. Landed the 18 pounders and carriages, employed mounting the guns and clearing the woods.

28th. The Munster Lass, Captain Bett, arrived from Malacca. This vessel was run away with from Masulipatam by some Europeans, and seized by the Dutch at Malacca at the request of Lieutenant Stephenson; the people all at work.

29th. Fine weather and fresh southerly winds, every body employed, the Munster Lass returned to Malacca. In cutting the trees, our axes, hatchets, and hand bolts suffer much, the wood is so exceeding hard that the tools double like a piece of lead; requested of Captain Bett on his return from Malacca to bring some Chia axes and parangs from Malacca likewise a smith and washerman.

30th. A fine day - employed clearing the ground, employed as usual.

31st. The same.

1st August. This morning several squalls, with thunder and rain, people employed clearing the ground; several prahus arrived from Queda with several articles for sale, the bazar increases and we receive a constant supply of fine fish.

2nd. Fine weathe5r, marines and lascars constantly employed; - observing the Europeans to be very idle ordered them to make the Gabions. - An officer of the Siamese arrived, who informed me that they had conquered Poogul and taken above one hundred pieces of cannon, that their army was now against Sagar, and as soon as the monsoon served they would attack the Burmese.

3rd. A severe squall, with rain in the afternoon; - began to line off the ground for a fort.

4th. Squalls with thunder and rain, the people at work whenever the weather permits.

5th. Fair weather. - The inhabitants every day paying me a visit, I requested their assistance in cutting down the large trees called Bore. They cut down four but I could not prevail upon them to attempt any more, having broke two of their Bluongs (axes.) Contracted with some Malays to bring Neebons for a stockade at dollars 6 per hundred 12 feet long each.

6th. The people employed in clearing the ground; - ordered the Chinese to dig up the sand and saw the roots of the large trees. This proves a slow and laborious work, offered to the Malays a dollar for every four trees they should cut down.

7th. A fine day; - erected a flag staff. The Eliza returned from Queda - bought some chunam, planks, fowls and ducks, and paddy, with several Christian families.

8th. Fine weather, the lascars building a store house and the Chinese sawing down the trees, the Malays accepted the offer of 1 dollar for four trees and went to work with great spirit.

9th. Fair weather, every body employed. The marines have made frequent complaints of the hardship they suffer in being obliged to work, this at a time when they are indulged with full Batta and provisions is a proof of their ignorance and unworthiness.

10th. Fair weather, two boats arrived with officers from the Vansittart and Valentine, Honorable Company's ships; they brought letters from the Government of Madras. The ships were just in sight, I wrote to the Captains, and requested their company ashore for a few hours in the evening, the ships anchored in the outer roads.

11th. Captains Wall and Lewin came ashore with several passengers, saluted them with nine guns, thought this the most favorable opportunity for taking a formal possession of the island, at noon assembled all the gentlemen under the flag, who unitedly hoisted the flag, taking possession of the island in the name of his Britannic Majesty, and for the use of the Honorable East India Company, the Artillery and ships firing a Royal salute, the marines three volleys. The Sullivan, Captain Pounce, was barely in sight, he sent his letter by another boat and sailed for China, in the evening Captain Lewin went on board and sailed for China.

12th. Fine weather, Tonkoo Ia a relation to the king of Queda arrived, he staid a few days with me and particularly cautioned me not to let more than one or two Malays visit me at a time. I had from the first given directions to Noqueda Catchee to allow no Malays to come ashore armed and this has been faithfully complied with. - Captain Wall went on board and sailed for China.

13th. Fair weather, a boat from the General Goddard arrived with a letter from the Government of Madras. Captain Foxal requested if I had no particular service, he might be permitted to continue his voyage - accordingly on the return of his boat he departed. The Fort William, Captain Simson, came in and anchored under Ratt Island and saluted the fort with nine guns, which I returned.

14th. Captain Simson with his passengers came ashore - supplied him with a bullock as I had done the other ships, and with fowls, fruit, and i received the greatest attention from the Captains of the ships which came in, and got a supply of such necessaries as I wanted. The sight of three large ships, the report of their guns, and the number of Europeans coming ashore, serve to raise us considerably in the opinion of the Malays.

15th. The Fort William sailed. Employed cutting down trees, and erecting a fort. Having received a letter from the Christians at Queda requesting I would provide them a conveyance to the island, as Captain Loundes had no use for his vessel I engaged him to go to Queda and bring them. In the afternoon he sailed.

17th. Arrived the Prince George, Captain Robson, from Queda, he has lost his main top-mast, and wanted some other repairs. Employed the Malays of the island to cut them a top-mast, and lent our carpenters to refit his vessel. The people employed in erecting the fort, and clearing the ground; the Eliza taking ballast and water.

18th. Showers of rain, the Malays felling the trees. Having promises the marines and lascars a present on the ceremony of hoisting the flag gave them pieces of gurrahs.

19th. Most part rain, with fresh gales from N.W.; - arrived some prahus from Queda.

20th. Frequent showers, and hard squalls from the N.W. the sea running very high upon shoals of Qualla Mooda, rebounded back into the north bay, and occasioned a surf upon the beach, which at high water broke over in some few places, this was soaked up by the sand, before it reached six yards, - the ships lay perfectly quiet and secure.

Such is the history of the birth and first few days of the infancy of Prince of Wales' Island as recorded by its founder Captain Francis Light.

It has been long and confidently believed that this Captain Light, having married the daughter of the king (or Rajah) of Quedah, (Kedah) obtained possession of the island of Pinang as his wife's dowry, and that he subsequently sold it to the East Indian Company for a sum of ready money and the appointment of chief of the settlement. This story, though widely circulated and fondly cherished by the descendants of that gentleman, has unfortunately no foundation in truth. The Government of India had been for some years desirous of obtaining possession of a suitable spot for a settlement on the eastern side of the Bay of Bengal, and Captain Light, among others, was employed to look out for some eligible locality. This gentleman was connected with the Keddah trade, and resided a good deal at the capital of the Rajah, where he no doubt acquired considerable influence. Through hi, an offer was made to the Supreme Government, of the island of Pinang, to be ceded to the Honorable Company on certain conditions. The Supreme Government, then under the presidentship of Sir John Macpherson, moved by the representations made to them on the subject, decided on forming a settlement on that island. Captain Light, who had gone to Calcutta with the offer from the Rajah of Keddah, was sent back to that place with instructions to negotiate for the cession of the island, which having successfully accomplished, he sailed to take possession of Pinang as described in the above extracts.

The object of these "notes" is simply to amuse and interest those who have become acquainted with this beautiful island in these its later days, by a recurrence of the earlier scenes and events in its history. So far as may be practicable, the rise and decline of the trade of the island will be traced as also the rise and progress of the judicial system, which, as it now exists is somewhat unique of its kind; but for political matters, and especially for any discussion on the "vexata questio" of the relations subsisting between Siam and Keddah, the pages of the Journal of the Indian Archipelago are no proper receptacle.

The St George's Church

The Church of St George the Martyr in Farquhar Street, Penang, celebrates their bicentenary or 200th anniversary today. That's coming three years after Penang Free School had their own Bicentenary celebrations in 2016. Both institutions, the St George's Church and Penang Free School, have a common denominator in Robert Sparke Hutchings. While Hutchings was very well known as the man who founded the Free School, less is known about his role in the establishment of this Anglican church. But it was during his time in Penang that the Church's foundation stone was laid.

In May 1956, there appeared in The Straits Times, a long article about the St George's Church. As it is rather difficult to read the story from the picture, here it is reproduced below. J.G. at the end of the article would be the initials of the Rev. Jack Griffiths. He was the chaplain of the St George's Church from 1953 to 1956.

THE Great  Charter granted by King James I of England in 1609 had commanded the East India Company among other things, that the Company should maintain ministers and schoolmasters for their garrisons and factories in the East Indies.

It was not until two hundred years later that steps were taken to appoint a bishop and three archdeacons in India. Then in 1800, the then Governor Sir George Leith, appointed George Caunter as lay chaplain at Penang, a post equivalent to that of a lay preacher of today. Soon the Governor felt that without a priest there could be no sacramental life for the community and accordingly put up a case for the Court of Directors.

And so, the Rev. Atwill Lake was appointed chaplain, and one Thomas Cullen as clerk and schoolmaster at Penang. Orders had also been given that as soon as convenient work should begin on the erection of a church building.

Unfortunately there was some delay, however, as the seemingly more important projects of a jail, an arsenal and a garrison had to be completed first.

It is presumed that between 1800, and 1818 when the new church was built, church services were held at Fort Cornwallis, in a chapel there or in a 'convenient room.'

The real pioneer of the Anglican church in Penang was the Rev. Robert Hutchings. In October 1816, he opened a small Free School in Love Lane, thus establishing the oldest and one of the most important schools in Malaya.

It was during Robert's ministry in Penang that the foundation stone of the church of St George the Martyr was laid. The church cost the East India Company $60,000. It was built by convict labour.

The unfortunate results of having a church built for and given to the community were mentioned by the Rev. John H. Smith in a lecture during the centenary celebrations of its consecration.

"...she was by her official constitution more or less moribund, her operations were restricted, in a word, she suffered from an accentuated form of establishment," he said.

He observed that the personal activity of several of the chaplains in Penang, as in Singapore and Malacca, had overflowed the official cup.

In his Glimpses Into Life In The Far East, J.T. Thompson makes reference to St George's Church and its parishioners during 1838-41.

"Let us enter the church," he writes, "at Sunday morning service. The interior is in the finest taste fitted for the climate. The pews are not boxed in, but an open railing closes round each.

"The smallest breath of air can flow through the nave. It is fitted up with the most scrupulous care for the comfort of the congregation.

"Two boys pulled long punkahs overhead while another pumped air into the organ up in the gallery. Of the 300-400 seats, only 20 were occupied. A few men had come from the garrison.

"But now the organ peels forth its soul-inspiring strains and the clergyman and his clerk enter....the responses are read by the clerk with flippant air, nor do the congregation join in any way whatsoever.

"His insincere communication of earnest supplicants have no seconders. All is as silent as the sepulchure.

"The Psalms are given out; our clerk does not condescend to sing, nor do the congregation. The sermon is short, dull and impractical, sleepy and unattractive. This over, no charity is asked....the syces bring out conveyances underneath the portico, and we disperse.

"And does this curate of souls visit his people? No. What does he do? He plants nutmegs....He is the burra padre, a great man's priest...."

Many tablets and memorials were put up along the inside walls of the church before and after the erection of the Francis Light monument in the compound.

Amongst those whom they commemorated were Lord Cornwallis, Governor-General of India in 1786, Dr John Ross, one of the earliest private medical practitioners in Penang, and the Rev. L.C. Biggs, who founded the Chinese Mission.

One of the most interesting of these memorials, the Black Memorial, was in the chancel, and marked the only interment to take place in the church itself. It was to "Harriet, wife of Robert Fullerton, Governor of Penang Island."

In the centenary number of the Pinang Gazette, published in 1933, the late Rev. Keppel Garnier writes: "....she died in 1830, aged 48, and the story goes that she was not a kind mistress to the household slaves.

"In fact, they hated her so bitterly that they declared that when she died they would never let her bones rest in peace.

"This threat was taken so seriously that when she came to die, her husband arranged for a mock ceremony in the cemetery, and later, after dark the same night, the real coffin was lowered into a space dug in the chancel floor, and the service was held over the mortal remains by the light of a candle and in the presence of her husband only...."

It was the Bishop of Calcutta, Bishop Middleton, who consecrated St George's Church on May 11, 1819.

In 1858 the old East India Company ceased to exist, and India became subject to the Crown. In 1867 the Straits Settlements were detached from oversight by the Indian Government and became a Crown Colony.

In 1869 Penang severed its ecclesiastical ties with the Indian Government and came under the spiritual jurisdiction of the Bishop of Labuan. In the following year St Andrew's Cathedral, Singapore, was declared the Peninsular Cathedral of the diocese.

St George's Church was the first Anglican Church in Malaya despite the fact that Christ Church, Malacca, is fifty years older. The latter, however, belonged originally to the Dutch Reformed Church, only later becoming Anglican.

The life of St George's Church went on with little change until its was disestablished in 1916. And as such, it continued for another 25 years....

Then came the dark day when the walls of the church were to stand battered and unused, and pillaged furnishings were to be scattered and lost. From long after that day worshippers came no more to where their predecessors had worshipped God for over 125 years.

But stones and buildings do not make a church. So while the visible structure stood gaunt and ruined, the spirit of the church of St George the Martyr lived on, moving the site of its worship from place to place as necessity commanded.

Its building was looted and defaced, but its soul, vigorous and inspired by adversity, retained its identity. On the day the Japanese arrived, six bombs were dropped into the church compound, but only one hit the church. It was the only church in Malaya to be bombed.

The bomb damage was small, but the church as well as the then completely unharmed parsonage and mission hall were wrecked and pillaged by looters.

Mr Victor Lunberg, who was licensed as a lay reader on Dec 18, 1942, and received his licence, which had to be smuggled to him on Christmas Day, rescued the church records and other articles eventually to be destroyed by the Japanese.

When the war reached Malaya, the then Vicar of Penang, the Rev. R.J. Thompson, who was nearly sixty years of age, left for active service with the Volunteer Corps, to which he was chaplain.

Thereupon the Rev. Eric Scott, Vicar of Butterworth, moved boldly about Penang in company with Mr Lunberg. It was suggested to Mr Scott that he should say he was Irish so that he could enjoy certain freedom of movement as a comparative neutral . He refused. As a result, he was confined to St Nicholas' Home where the church services were held for the next twelve months.

Then services were held at the Chinese parsonage, where now stands the St Paul's Church. Sometimes Japanese soldiers and officers attended these services.

After the liberation, the Government allowed the Anglicans to use the Methodist Church in Burmah Road.

In 1948 the original church building was restored and entirely refurbished. The time of ease and comfort for the church in Penang had ended on the day the Japanese arrived.

But the courage with which its people faced persecution augures (sic) well for the condition of its future. The restored church building is now the people's own church. They remade it with hands ready for love and service as the Jews rebuilt the battered Temple at Jerusalem.

Already a small but not insignificant happening has taken place which shows how its spiritual strength might move into an even more influential position.

In March this year a new aspect of its history was begun when litigation was brought to an end by an oath made upon the Bible in the church.

A newspaper account states: "It is not unusual among certain litigants in the courts to accept a challenge by cutting a cock's head in a temple to settle an issue under dispute, but for the first time an oath taking took place in a church without the decapitation of a rooster.

It was during the hearing of a civil suit in the Penang First Magistrate's court when the defendant challenged the plaintiffs, a trading firm, that if the firm's representative would swear an oath in a church, he would consent to judgment in respect of a claim for $200 being the balance due for cash advanced and for goods supplied.

"When the plaintiff's representative accepted the challenge, the court adjourned and the parties went to St George's Church. In the presence of the court's Chinese interpreter, the firm's representative swore to the validity of the claim.

"On the parties returning to the court, the Magistrate gave judgment for the plaintiffs after being assured by the defendant that he was satisfied with what had taken place."

J.G.